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The Correct Method to Assemble an ER Collet and Collet Nut

12/6/2023

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It is critical to properly assemble the collet and collet nut to avoid damage to the collet and make the most accurate and rigid assembly possible.

The extraction groove of the collet must be properly seated to the extraction ring of the collet nut.
First, angle the collet so the extraction groove seats with the eccentric extraction ring in the collet nut as shown below.

​Next, while holding the 
collet and nut together, place the assembly in the tool holder and begin tightening the nut.
The Correct Method to Assemble an ER Collet and Collet Nut
If the collet extraction groove is not properly seated to the collet nut extraction ring, the collet will appear seated below the face of the nut.

This typically occurs when the collet is placed in the collet pocket of the tool holder and then the nut is threaded on the tool holder. In a correct assembly, the collet will seat at the face of the collet nut.

The image below shows a correct assembly on the left and an incorrect assembly on the right.
Correct and incorrect Er collet Assembly with Collet nut
DO NOT tighten the collet nut if the collet appears seated below the face of the nut as this will create galling on the 30° face of the collet. Galling appear as grooves or lines in the lead face of the collet.

Recognize Galling on Your ER Collet

Galling on the lead face of the collet can result in reduced clamping pressure on the cutting tool shank that may lead to the cutting tool slipping while cutting, or even tool breakage.
When trying to ensure the most rigid and accurate collet chuck assembly, don’t take chances.

When in doubt, throw it out!
​
Remember, the collet is designed to wear out and is the least expensive component in a collet chuck system.
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How Collets Work & What Impacts Collet Performance

9/6/2023

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Technical Blog excerpt courtesy of  Techniks USA
Techniks Parlec ER Collet Set
Techniks offers the broadest selection of ER collets including standard, steelsealed, coolant, rigid & floating tap, and DNA - Dead Nuts Accurate, collets.
It is important to understand how collets work, what impacts their performance, how to maintain collets for long service life, and how to recognize when to replace them.
Collets are a high-precision wear component of a tool holding system and require maintenance to ensure accuracy. First, it’s important to remember that collets are the softest component in a collet-based tool-holding system assembly and are designed to wear out.

Here is an overview of the wear pattern of a collet-based tool-holding system. The machine spindle is harder than the tool holder/collet chuck that fits into the spindle, so any wear between these two components will mostly occur to the collet chuck. That’s good.  It protects the spindle from expensive maintenance.

Collets are softer than both the collet chuck body and the cutting tool, so any wear forces between these items will mostly occur to the collet. Since collets are generally the least expensive component in a collet chuck tool holding system, it is preferred that the collets wear out before the other components.

Worn-out collets will not achieve the same level of accuracy and rigidity that newer collets can provide. The result is more chatter when cutting workpieces, less accuracy, and shorter cutting tool life.

When to Replace Collets

Collets are designed to wear out as they lose accuracy and rigidity with use. High side-load forces during milling operations cause cutting tool deflection as illustrated below.
High side-load forces during milling operations cause cutting tool deflection
Over time, these side-load forces will bell-mouth the collet at its face.
Bell mouth Collet from cutting tool load
As the collet experiences bell-mouthing, the cutting tool is allowed to deflect more and more during milling operations.

​Unfortunately, the collet may still indicate good accuracy on a presetter where there are no side-load forces. However, once the tool is put into service and begins experiencing side-load forces, the cutting tool is allowed more room to deflect, resulting in increased chatter and reduced tool life.

It is recommended to change collets out every 4-6 months, depending on usage, to ensure the most rigid and accurate collet chuck assembly.
A good rule of thumb is to replace collets every 4-6 months to maximize the performance of your tooling. 

Again, collets are designed to wear out and are generally the least expensive component in the system. It is much less expensive to replace the collets as opposed to prematurely wearing out cutting tools.

The following tips will help you in maintaining collets:
  • Clean the collet with a cloth and the interior with a little brass brush (sometimes the broken ends of tools & other debris can become lodged within).
  • WD40 should be sprayed on fresh collets before being cleaned with a cloth. By doing this, the protective coating applied to collets before they are packaged will be removed (something that can make it harder to grip tools).
  • Ensure that there is no debris in the slots as this could reduce the clamping force. If an obstruction is seen in a slot, use a thin object, like a knife’s tip, to remove the obstruction.

Signs that Your Collet Should be Replaced

Any signs of fretting on the collet indicate the collet is vibrating in the tool holder.

​Fretting appears as rust-colored spots typically at the highest point where the collet sits in the collet pocket of the collet chuck.  

This is not rust but rather an indication that there is a vibration between the collet and the collet pocket connection.

​The vibration causing the fretting is also reducing cutting tool life.

Fretting on an ER Collet
If you see signs of fretting on the collet, it is advised to replace the collet. You should also ensure that collet nuts are tightened to the correct torque specifications during setup.

CLICK HERE to see all of our more in-depth articles on FRETTING to learn more.
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Fundamentals of Collets and Collet Chucks

2/8/2023

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Edited by Bernard Martin
Anatomy Components of an ER Collet
If you work in the metalcutting, signmaking or cabinet making manufacturing industry, the term “collets” is already very familiar to you.

​There are many types of collets used in many different industries and applications. This article is focused on collets used in rotary tool holders found in CNC milling machining centers and CNC Routers and also used in CNC Lathes and Swiss Style CNC's. 
​
 Let's cover the basics:

What are Collets?

Collets are the critical connection between the cutting tool and the tool holder, also called a collet chuck. Most collets are round, cone-shaped, and slotted. Collets encircle the cutting tool shank to evenly distribute holding power around its center bore.
​
Before getting too deep into the technical aspect of collets, It's going to be helpful to anyone new to the use of collets to understand the basic anatomy of collets and of a collet chuck system.

How Collets Work

Component Parts of a collet chuck anatomy
Collet ins depicted being held in a CAT 40 rotary collet chuck toolholder used in CNC milling machines.
The tapered collet base is made to fit into the collet pocket of the collet chuck body. The free release locking tapered (16°included, 8° per side) design of the collet base and collet pocket allows the collet to be centered in the pocket as it is pushed in by the collet nut on the lead face during setup.

This centering effect enables the collet to achieve a high degree of accuracy (concentricity); much more than drill chucks and side-lock style end mill holders.

As he collet nut is tightened down on the collet, it is pushed into the pocket collet chuck pocket.  The slots in the collet allow the I.D. bore to collapse and apply clamping pressure to the cutting tool shank. It's essentially a spring that is compressed tight around the shank of the cutting tool such as a drill or end mill.

​The result is a very strong and rigid clamping force on the cutting tool. Since the collet base is tapered to match the collet pocket, tool runout (T.I.R.) is reduced.

Total indicator runout (TIR) is a term often used in manufacturing, especially when dealing with rotating parts such as cutting tools, particularly endmills and drills. TIR is defined as the difference between the maximum and minimum values measured across an entire rotating surface about a reference axis.
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INDICATION MARKS ON PULL STUDS ​IS NOT NORMAL

5/25/2021

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by Bernard Martin
There have been some who claim that drawbar gripper fingers and/or ball marks that appear on retention knob head after several tool changes is normal.
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It is NOT.  
​THAT IS FALSE. 
​

According to Haas CNC, ball or gripper marks on the edge of the pull stud indicate that the drawbar does not open completely.

​If you see these indication marks you should check your drawbar and replace these pull studs immediately.

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Don't Take Your Retention Knobs for Granted

2/16/2021

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​by Bernard Martin
Retention Knobs are the critical connection between your machine tool and the tool holder and they are the only thing holding a steep taper tool holder in the machine’s spindle.

​Techniks has recently introduced their MegaFORCE retention knobs that have some rather unique features when compared to standard pull studs.  Before delving into the features of the MegaFORCE pull studs, let's review some things that you may not know, or think about, on a daily basis. 
1 Retention knob pull stud casues of failure

Retention knobs go through thousands of tool changes which means that they are subjected to the very high pulling forces from the spindle’s drawbar.

This force can be up to 2300 ft. lbs. for 40 taper toolholders and up to 5000 ft. lbs. for 50 taper toolholders.
​According to Haas, you should expect a service life of about 6000-8000 hours for a retention knob.  

​Most all rotary toolholder manufacturers state that you should be replacing your pull studs at least every three years.

However, if you're running multiple shifts, 24-7, making lots of tool changes, making very heavy cuts with long reach or heavy cutting tools, and/or have ball lock style grippers instead of collet type grippers used on the retention knob, you will probably need to replace your studs at least every six months.

Given the spindle speeds that we are running at to remain competitive, retention knobs are not an item that you want to take a chance on breaking.  I can tell you firsthand that 5 pound toolholder with a drill in it flying out of the spindle at 23,000 RPM is not something you want to experience. 

METAL FATIGUE: WHY THEY FAIL

Pull studs encounter catastrophic failure as a result of metal fatigue. The metal fatigue can be caused by a number of reasons including poor choice of base material, engineering design, machining process, poor heat treatment, and, sometimes, they have just met or exceeded their service life. We're going to dig into each of these reasons below but first let's look at some threading fundamentals.
The threads on your retention knob will stretch slightly when load is applied and the loading borne on each thread is different.

When you apply a tensile load on a threaded pull stud, the first thread at the point of connection sees the highest percentage of the load.
Percentage of Load on a Retention Knob Thread
Percentage of Load on each thread of a Retention Knob.
The load on each subsequent thread decreases from there, as show in the table. Any threads beyond the first six are purely cosmetic and provide no mechanical advantage. ​

Additional threads beyond the sixth thread will not further distribute the load and will not make the connection any stronger. 

That is why the length of engagement of the thread on a pull stud is generally limited to approximately one to one & a half nominal diameter. After that, there is no appreciable increase in strength. Once the applied load has exceeded the first thread's capacity, it will fail and subsequently cause the remaining threads to fail in succession.

​RETENTION KNOB DESIGN

Repetitive cycles of loading and unloading subject the retention knob to stress that can cause fatigue and cracking at weak areas of the pull stud.

What are the weak areas of a standard retention knob?  ​
For the same reason we put corner radiuses on end mills, sharp corners are a common area of failure for any mechanical device.

​The same holds true with your pull studs:  The sharp angles on the head of the retention knob and at the minor diameter of the threads are common locations of catastrophic material failure.
Retention Knob Metal Fatigue
These are the two weakest points of any retention knob.
The most common failure point for a retention knob is at the top of the first thread and the underside of the pull stud where the grippers or ball bearings of the drawbar engage and draw the toolholder into the spindle.

Remember, bigger Radii are stronger than sharp corners. ​More on that soon.
Styles of Retention Knob for Rotary Toolholders
Styles of MegaFORCE Retention Knobs

MATERIAL

Not all retention knobs are made from the same material, however, material alone does not make for a superior retention knob. Careful attention to design and manufacturing methods must be followed to avoid introducing potential areas of failure.

Techniks MegaFORCE retention knobs are made from 8620H. AISI 8620 is a hardenable chromium, molybdenum, nickel low alloy steel often used for carburizing to develop a case-hardened part. This case-hardening will result in good wear characteristics.  8620 has high hardenability, no tempering brittleness, good weldability, little tendency to form a cold crack, good maintainability, and cold strain plasticity.

There are some companies making retention knobs from 9310. The main difference is the lower carbon content in the 9310. 9310 has a tad more Chromium, while 8620 has a tad more nickel.  Ultimate Tensile Strength (UTS) is the force at which a material will break. The UTS of 8620H is 650 Mpa (megapascals: a measure of force). The UTS of 9310H is 820 Mpa. So, 9310H does have a UTS that is 26% greater than 8620H.

​That said, Techniks chose 8620 as their material of choice because of the higher nickel content.  Nickel tends to work harden more readily and age harden over time which brings the core hardness higher as the pull stud gets older. The work hardening property of 8620 makes it ideally suited for cold forming of threads on the MegaFORCE retention knobs.

​It should be noted that some companies are using H13. H13 shares 93% of their average alloy composition in common with 9310. 

ROLLED THREADS VS. CUT THREADS

5. Cut thread vs rolled thread retention knob
A cut thread, image 1, has a higher coefficient of friction due the the cutting process, while a roll formed thread, image 2, has a lower coefficient of friction which means that it engages deeper into the toolholder bore when subjected to the same torque. You will notice that Cutting threads tears at the material and creates small fractures that become points of weakness that can lead to failure. Rolled threads have burnished roots and crests that are smooth and absent of the fractures common in cut threads.
Rolled threads produce a radiused root and crest of the thread and exhibit between a 40% and 300% increase in tensile strength over a cut thread. The Techniks MegaFORCE retention knobs feature rolled threads that improve the strength of the knob by 40%.  
6. LMT Fette - Thread rolling with F2 Rolling head on CNC lathe
Shown here is a Fette head cold forming a thread. Note how the three roller forms center and maintain near perfect concentricity of the pull stud shaft.
In cold forming, the thread rolls are pressed into the component, stressing the material beyond its yield point. This causes the component material to be deformed plastically, and thus, permanently.

There are three rollers in the typical thread rolling head that maintain better concentricity by default than single point cutting of the threads.

Also, unlike thread cutting, the grain structure of the material is displaced not removed.
Rolled threads produce grain flows that follow the contour of the threads making for a stronger thread at the pitch diameter which is the highest point of wear. 

The cold forming process also cold works the material which takes advantage of the nickel work hardening properties of 8620.
7. Fette Turning Concepts Thread Rolling Magnaflux
Photo courtesy Mike Roden at Fette Tool. www.turningconcepts.com
By comparison, cut threads interrupt the grain flow creating weak points.

MEGAFORCE GEOMETRIC DESIGN

MegaForce Retention Knob features vs standard pull stud
Overall Length
There are some claims that a longer projection engages threads deeper in the tool holder preventing taper swelling. While a deeper thread engagement can help prevent taper swelling, applying proper torque to the retention knob is an effective way to reduce taper swelling.

An over-tightened retention knob may still cause taper swelling regardless of how deep it engages the threads of the tool holder. Additionally, the longer undercut section above the threads presents a weak point in the retention knob.
Blended Radii
With the new Techniks MegaFORCE pull studs, stress risers of sharp angles have been eliminated through the blended radii on the neck where the gripper engages under the head of the pull stud.
9. Techniks MegaFORCE Pull Studs
Ground Pilot
There is a ground pilot, underneath the flange, which provides greater stability. The pilot means the center line of the tool holder and pull stud are perfectly aligned.

Magnetic Particle Tested
Each Techniks MegaFORCE retention knob is magnetic particle tested to ensure material integrity and physical soundness. MegaFORCE retention knobs are tested at 2.5X the pulling forces of the drawbar.
MegaFORCE Technical Specs
  • Material: SAE8620
  • All knobs are case carbrized, hardened, and tempered to:
    • Case depth: 0.025” – 0.030”
    • Surface hardness: HRc 56-60
    • Core hardness: HRc 44 minimum
Torque Specs
The following are the guidelines for torquing your pull studs according to Techniks.
  • BT 30 36 ft. lbs.
  • ISO 30 - 36 ft. lbs.
  • 40 taper - 76 ft. lbs.
  • 50 Taper - 100 ft. lbs.

RETENTION KNOB BEST PRACTICES

In order to maximize the life of your retention knob and prevent catastrophic failure here are some technical tips to keep your shop productive and safe.
  • Regularly inspect retention knobs for signs of wear. Wear may appear as dimples or grooves under the head or visible corrosion anywhere on the retention knob. 
Picture
  • If the retention knob demonstrates any signs of wear replace it immediately
  • Make sure to properly torque the retention knob to the manufacturer’s specifications. Use a torque wrench and retention knob adapter to ensure proper torque. 
  • Overtightening can overly stress the retention knob leading to premature failure and can cause the tool holder taper to swell leading to a poor fit between the machine spindle and the tool holder.
  • Apply a light coat of grease to the retention knob MONTHLY to lubricate the drawbar. If you use through-spindle coolant (TSC), apply grease to the retention knobs WEEKLY.

Special thanks for Greg Webb at Techniks and Mike Roden from Fette Tools/ Turning Concepts, for providing technical insights. 
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Some Drilling Tips to Keep-in-Mind

6/13/2018

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We've assembled a few tips on drilling that you may want to pass along to your team.

Drilling Tip 1

OSG EXOCARB ADO-SUS
During drilling operations, chip formation is very important to keep an eye on. If you are getting long unbroken chip with jagged edges, your feed rate is too high. If you are getting tight spirals but the chips are not breaking apart, your feed rate is too low.

The Ideal chip shape is small tight curls, Like little "6's and 9's". When you are getting these shapes of chips then you will get best tools life and finish on your part.

Drilling Tip 2

Drilling Tips tricks
If your drill is getting chipped only on one edge or if your drill has more wear on one cutting edge than the other, the cause could be bad run out of the drill or bad alignment of the machine.

This means one side of the drill is experiencing more axial forces than the other. If you correct the run out of the drill and alignment of machine spindle, the problem will be solved.

Drilling Tip 3

OSG Tap Die Drill runout
If your drill has too much run out, you will have issues such as hole expansion, bad hole perpendicularity, and poor surface finish.
Drill run out should be less than 0.0008"(0.02mm) when setting up. The run out increases with the speed, thus, when drilling a deep hole.

OSG recommends making the pilot hole 0~0.003"(0.08mm) oversize and inserting a long drill at 0~500rpm so that the drill is fitting properly in the pilot hole .

Drilling Tip 4

OSG V-Series HELIOS dri
The V-Series HELIOS® drill is the 1st drill to process deep holes 10X-20X diameter, without pecking and without the use of internal coolant supply.

Flute form, point thinning and compound lead construction are all patented technologies developed by OSG to make this drill do what no other parabolic HSS-Co drill can.

The addition of our exclusive WXL coating technology makes non-peck drilling repeatable, even in the longest of production runs.

Drilling Tip 5

Last but not least, don't forget that now through August 31st, save 12% on select A-Drills!l
OSG Drill Promotion 2018
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Alternatives to Steep Tapers

12/13/2017

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Below are excerpts from a Cutting Tool Engineering article by the same title. To read the entire article please click HERE.
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Author Kip Hanson, Contributing Editor, Cutting Tool Engineering
(520) 548-7328
[email protected]
Kip Hanson is a contributing editor for Cutting Tool Engineering magazine. Originally Published: September 12, 2017 - 3:00pm


Shopping for a machining center was simpler when buyers had only two basic spindle choices: CAT or BT. Both of these “steep tapers” have an angle of 3.5 in./ft., or 7" in 24" (7/24), and are based on the 1927 patent by Kearney & Trecker Corp., Brown & Sharpe Manufacturing Co. and Cincinnati Milling Machine Co. 
​
With the development of automatic toolchangers in the late 1960s, machine tool builders in Japan modified the patented design and invented the BT standard. In the 1970s, tractor manufacturer Caterpillar Inc., Peoria, Ill., changed things again with a flange design now known as CAT, or V-flange.

“Sticking” Together

During the late ’80s, machine tool builders began offering vertical and horizontal CNC mills with spindle speeds higher than the 6,000 to 8,000 rpm common at the time. As rpm increased, so did problems with steep-taper toolholders.

​Chief among them is the tendency for the mating spindle and toolholder tapers to stick together. This is caused by the expansion of the spindle housing at high speeds, which allows the toolholder to be pulled upward into the spindle taper, jamming it in place.
HSK spindles, like the one shown in the illustration below, offer advantages steep-taper styles can't.  

​One way to eliminate this problem is by extending the toolholder flange upward, thus creating a hard stop against the spindle face and preventing further Z-axis movement. ​
HSK Ibag Spindle Cutaway
HSK spindles, like the one shown in the illustration above, offer advantages steep-taper styles can't. Image courtesy of IBAG North America.
This is the approach taken by BIG KAISER Precision Tooling Inc., Hoffman Estates, Ill. Jack Burley, vice president of sales and engineering, said the BIG-PLUS system—developed in 1992 by BIG Daishowa Seiki Co. Ltd., Osaka, Japan—relies on a bit of elastic deformation in the spindle to provide dual points of toolholder contact at its face and taper, eliminating upward holder movement as the spindle expands.

He said it’s also more rigid, with tests showing that the deflection on a CV40 BIG-PLUS toolholder measured at 70mm (2.755") from the spindle face is only 60µm (0.002") when subjected to 500kg (1,102 lbs.) of radial force, roughly half that of a traditional V-flange toolholder.
For people who think they can’t take advantage of this technology because they don’t plan to buy a new machine, they might want to check with their distributor, as their machine may already be equipped for BIG-PLUS.
Big Plus vs Standard Steep Taper contact
​“There are now roughly 150 machine builders that either offer BIG-PLUS or have it as a standard,” Burley said. “The beauty of the system is that it can use either standard toolholders or BIG-PLUS interchangeably. So for drilling and reaming work, you can use a conventional collet chuck, but for heavy milling cuts or profiling operations at higher spindle speeds, BIG-PLUS improves accuracy and tool life.”

Revving Up

Burley does not recommend BIG-PLUS for older machines that have never seen these toolholders, because CAT and BT taper-only contact holders tend to bellmouth the spindle over time, leading to undesirable results.

BIG-PLUS, like any dual-contact toolholder, requires particular attention to cleanliness, as chips caught between the spindle face and the toolholder can cause serious problems.

​He also recommends staying below 30,000 rpm when using 40-taper holders, noting that higher speeds are better handled by HSK spindles and holders.

Keep It Clean

clamping mechanism for HSK toolholders
The clamping mechanism for HSK toolholders is distinctly different from that of steep-taper holders. Image courtesy of BIG KAISER Precision Tooling.
Bill Popoli, president of IBAG North America, North Haven, Conn., said the company started building steep-taper spindles in the late ’80s, but 95 percent of its work has since transitioned to HSK spindles. As mentioned earlier, the extreme accuracy needed to guarantee near-simultaneous contact between the spindle face and taper is challenging, requiring micron-level tolerances in toolholder and spindle alike.
​
These requirements were impossible to meet when steep taper was first developed, Popoli said, resulting in looser standards overall for CAT and BT spindles than the ones applied to HSK spindles and toolholders. Because of this, purchasing an HSK or equivalent toolholder automatically makes one “part of the club” when it comes to balance, accuracy, repeatability and tool life.
That’s not to say, however, that shops firmly married to steep tapers should settle for less. Popoli recommends purchasing the highest-quality tooling possible and paying close attention to the stated tolerance.

Always stay below 20,000 rpm with 40-taper holders, and reach no more than 30,000 rpm with 30-taper ones. Use balanced holders and high-quality retention knobs that have been properly torqued—otherwise distortion at the small end of the taper may occur. And whatever the taper type, keep the spindle and toolholder clean at all times.

Bob Freitag agreed. The manager of application engineering at Minneapolis-based metalworking products and services provider Productivity Inc. said the lines are evenly split between traditional 40- and 50-taper CAT or BT tooling (much of which is BIG-PLUS) and HSK. 

“It really depends on the application,” Freitag said. “Most of our die and mold machines in the 20,000- to 30,000-rpm range will have an HSK63A or HSK63F. When you get up around 45,000 rpm, you’re probably looking at an HSK32. But in horizontal machining centers and lower-rpm, high-torque verticals, you’ll see mostly steep tapers, as this is generally preferred for deep depths of cut and lower feed rates, where you’re removing a lot of material at once.”

For shops that want to make the leap to an HSK machine but are leery of investing in new toolholders, Freitag advised:

​“Anytime you buy a new machine, you should buy new toolholders to go with it. If not, the imperfections of the old toolholders will soon transfer themselves to the spindle on the new machine.”
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Next Generation Tooling Now Offers Technical Training!

6/14/2017

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We are very excited to announce that we are now able to offer on-site technical training to YOUR machinists at YOUR location!  This is offered at no charge  to customers who use any of the manufacturer's whom we represent in California and Nevada.  

However, just because you don't purchase things from us, don't feel left out! We also offer on-site topic specter training on any of the following topics for $150/hour.  

Each presentation lasts about 2 hours.  The presentations last approximately 45-60 minutes with the remaining time for Q&A and discussion about unique applications in your facility.
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Training Classes Available:
Machining 101
  • Basic Boring
  • Basic Chamfering
  • Basic Drill Training
  • Basic End Mill
  • Basic Indexable
  • Basic Tap Training
  • Basic Tool Holders
  • Basic Work Holding / Fixturing​

Advanced Part Manufacturing:
  • Programming Tool Path – Climb versus Conventional
  • Material Machinability – Cubic Inches of Stock Removal
  • Part Set Up / Work Holding / Fixture 
  • Tool Holder Selection, Collet, Solid, Hydraulic, Shrink Fit
  • Cutting Tool Selection – Substrate, Geometry, Coating, Speed and Feeds 
  • Estimating Part Cycle Time
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    Technical Support Blog

    At Next Generation Tool we often run into many of the same technical questions from different customers. This section should answer many of your most common questions.

    We set up this special blog for the most commonly asked questions and machinist data tables for your easy reference.

    If you've got a question that's not answered here, then just send us a quick note via email or reach one of us on our CONTACTS page here on the website.
    ​

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    Authorship

    Our technical section is written by several different people. Sometimes, it's from our team here at Next Generation Tooling & at other times it's by one of the innovative manufacturer's we represent in California and Nevada.

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Established 1995
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Next Generation Tooling
13962 Idaho Maryland Road
Nevada City, CA95959

916.765.4227
© 2025 Next Generation Tooling, LLC. 
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